Tips for Wet Shaving with a Straight Razor

Shaving and Razor Care

This detailed guide explains how to shave properly with a straight razor, including pictures and descriptions. It also covers how to sharpen and maintain your razor.

Ideal Tools for Shaving with a Straight Razor

• Straight razor
• Shaving foam (not pictured)
• Leather strop
• Oilstone (preferably Belgian)
• Honing oil (two types shown)

Click on the links to see detailed images. This article reflects the personal experience of the authors.

Stropping the Razor

Before and after every shave, the razor should be stropped on a leather strop. Lay the razor flat with the spine leading and pull it gently across the leather. Repeat 5 times on both sides.

Holding the Razor

For Smaller Hands

Shown by hairdresser Manuela Sokol. Open the razor to 270°, place the thumb on the underside of the tang, index and middle finger on top, ring finger on the tail, and pinky below.

For Larger Hands

Demonstrated by Martin Morocutti. Same 270° angle, but with slightly different finger placement. The pinky and ring finger are not actively gripping.

Feel free to adapt the grip to what feels most comfortable for you. Start by trying the illustrated techniques.

Shaving Someone Else

For right-handed users, the left temple can be hard to reach due to the ear. Try the grip shown here:

Straight razors, oils, strops, and oilstones available at www.knifeshop.com

Shaving Technique

Once you've practiced holding the razor, you can begin. Use plenty of shaving foam to soften the skin and reduce risk of injury. Beginners often cut themselves – stay calm and go slow. Straight razors are not recommended for people with shaky hands or little patience.

Aftercare

Rinse and dry the razor after use. If it gets dull, hone it on a fine oilstone:

Lay the razor flat and drag it across the stone with the edge leading (not the spine). Flip and repeat. Do this about 5 times per side. Then strop again as described above.

If the razor is still dull, it can be professionally reground:

A good straight razor, if used and maintained properly, will last a lifetime and only need professional sharpening every few years.

Warning: Shaving with a straight razor takes practice and care. Improper use can result in serious injury or even death. Keep out of reach of children!

Personal comment from Martin Morocutti:
“In the beginning, I often cut myself. The more practice I got, the fewer nicks I had. The sharper the razor, the easier and safer the shave.”